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Spring 2026 · The Beauty Column

Roundup No. 03 · Sunscreens

Sunscreens Without the Sales Talk

The single product with the strongest evidence in skincare, and the one most often sold with the worst copy.

Published 16 March 2026 · About 7 minutes

If this column could make you keep only one habit, it would be daily sunscreen. Ultraviolet exposure is responsible for most visible skin ageing and is the main modifiable risk factor for skin cancer, a point made consistently by the World Health Organization and by cancer charities from Cancer Research UK to the Skin Cancer Foundation in New York. And yet sunscreen marketing is a fog of numbers, stars and words like "invisible" that rarely survive contact with a real face. Let us clear the fog first, then rank the types.

Reading the label

SPF measures protection against UVB, the rays that cause burning, tested under the ISO 24444 method. SPF 30 filters roughly 97% of UVB in the lab; SPF 50 about 98%. The gap is small, but real-world application is thin, so many dermatologists suggest 30 as a minimum and 50 for long days outdoors.

UVA drives ageing and pigmentation, and labels for it vary by region. In the European Union, a circled "UVA" logo means UVA protection is at least a third of the SPF. In the UK, the Boots star rating scores the UVA-to-UVB ratio from one to five stars. Japan and Korea use the PA system, from PA+ to PA++++, based on persistent pigment darkening. In the US, "broad spectrum" under FDA rules means the product passed a critical wavelength test of 370 nm. Australia's TGA regulates sunscreens as therapeutic goods, which is why Australian formulas are tested rigorously.

The best sunscreen is the one you apply generously and reapply without sighing.

The roundup

  1. Modern-filter fluids (SPF 50, PA++++)

    Lightweight lotions built on newer filters such as bemotrizinol and bisoctrizole, common in Europe, the UK and Asia. Excellent UVA coverage, elegant finish, easy to wear daily. Not all of these filters are yet approved in the US.

    Worth it

  2. Tinted mineral sunscreens

    Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide with iron oxide tints. The tint hides white cast and the iron oxides add protection against visible light, useful for melasma. Shade ranges are improving but still uneven.

    Worth it

  3. Untinted mineral creams

    Gentle on reactive skin and good for children, but often chalky on deeper skin tones. Choose newer fluid formulas.

    Situational

  4. Sunscreen sticks

    Handy for reapplication on the nose and ears, but hard to apply in enough quantity to reach the labelled SPF over a whole face.

    Situational

  5. SPF setting sprays and powders

    Pleasant top-ups over make-up, but almost impossible to apply in protective amounts. Treat as a bonus, never as your main protection.

    Not alone

  6. Moisturisers with SPF 15

    Better than nothing on a dark winter day, but too low for daily outdoor life. Upgrade to 30 or above.

    Skip
Soft 3D render of a trio of stacked cosmetic jars in muted tones on a plain grey background
Texture decides whether you will reapply. Protection only works if the jar actually empties.

Mineral or modern? A quick comparison

TypeTypical filtersStrengthsWatch for
MineralZinc oxide, titanium dioxideGentle, good for sensitive skinWhite cast, heavier feel
Modern organicBemotrizinol, bisoctrizole, avobenzoneLight, invisible, strong UVAAvailability by country
HybridMix of bothBalanced texture and coverageVaries widely by formula

How much, and how often

Lab testing uses 2 mg of product per square centimetre of skin, which works out to roughly a quarter to a third of a teaspoon for the face alone. The popular "two-finger" rule, two strips along the length of the index and middle fingers, is a reasonable approximation. Reapply every two hours outdoors and after swimming or towelling, regardless of the label's water-resistance claim. Indoors, by a window, a morning application is usually enough.

The verdict

Buy an SPF 30–50 with strong UVA protection in a texture you like, apply enough, and reapply when outdoors. A modern-filter fluid is our first recommendation for most readers; a tinted mineral formula for sensitive or pigment-prone skin. Next: the basics that hold the routine together.

General information only. Not medical advice. Never make your own sunscreen at home.